Whirlpool/Maytag/Amana Top-Load Washer Keeps Draining? Causes, Diagnostics, and Fast Repair in Houston, Katy, Fulshear, Memorial & Uptown
If your top-load washer turns on and the drain pump runs non-stop, you’re not alone. We see this failure every week across Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana vertical-axis models in Houston, Katy, Fulshear, Memorial, Uptown, and Cinco Ranch. This guide explains the symptoms, shows what you can safely check, and tells you when to call a pro.
Quick Summary
- Typical symptom: As soon as power is applied or you press Start, the drain pump runs constantly. No fill, no agitation, and sometimes no indicator lights.
- Common models affected: Whirlpool WTW4955HW3, WTW4816FW3, and related WTW48xx/49xx series; Maytag MVWC215EW1; Amana NTW series that share the same control platform.
- Most likely root cause (90%+ of our calls): failure of the main control board’s integrated pressure sensor. The board “thinks” the tub is full and energizes the pump without stopping.
- DIY you can try: reset power, clear the pressure hose and air dome, reseat the hose on the control, and run calibration. These steps sometimes help—but not often.
- Professional solution: repair or replace the control board. Our typical total in the Houston area is $250–$350, which beats buying a new washer (usually $700+ with tax, delivery, install, and haul-away).
How the Water-Level System Works
Modern Whirlpool-platform top-loaders measure water level with a small pressure sensor connected to the outer tub by a thin rubber hose. As water rises, air pressure in that hose increases. The sensor reports the pressure to the main control board, which then allows fill, wash, rinse, and spin. When the sensor misreads—often reporting “full” when the tub is empty—the board plays it safe and keeps the drain pump running. After several minutes the board shuts the pump down to protect it, then flags an error like F3E1 (pressure system fault) or F9E1 on certain variants.
Across Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana, this platform is nearly identical. That’s why the symptom looks the same from brand to brand: the logic board believes water is present, so the pump runs even when the tub is bone dry.
Real-World Symptoms We See in Houston & Katy
- Drain pump starts immediately after plugging in or pressing Start.
- No fill, no agitation; sometimes the console remains dark.
- Cycle will not start; “Sensing” may blink without progress.
- After a long drain, the machine pauses, then repeats the same behavior.
- Error codes such as F3E1 or F9E1 appear, or diagnostics fail at the water-level test.
We have documented cases similar to this in our local articles: a Whirlpool F9E1 drain error in Katy and a Maytag repair success story in Houston. Different symptoms, same platform.
Safe DIY Checks You Can Try First
Before booking a visit, you can perform a few safe steps. These come from factory tech sheets tucked inside the cabinet and from field-tested procedures we use daily in Memorial, Uptown, and Cinco Ranch.
- Power reset: Unplug the washer for 1–2 minutes to clear temporary faults. If the pump runs again immediately, continue below.
- Find the tech sheet: Remove two screws at the back corners of the top, slide the top back ~½ inch, and lift. Inside the front you’ll see a plastic envelope with the diagnostic sheet. It explains how to enter service mode and read stored codes. Write them down.
- Inspect the pressure hose: With power unplugged, remove the console. Locate the small clear/black hose from the board to the outer tub. Make sure it’s fully seated at both ends, has no cracks or pinholes, and isn’t kinked.
- Clear the air path: Detach the hose from the control and gently blow toward the tub. You should feel almost no resistance. Detergent or softener residue sometimes blocks the air dome. Do not blast compressed air into the control’s barb; a hard spike can damage the sensor diaphragm.
- Reseat and secure: Reattach the hose to the board’s barb and snap all console connectors fully home. Poor connections can mimic sensor faults.
- Run calibration/service test: Use the tech-sheet key sequence to run automatic diagnostics. If F3E1 returns or the pump still runs constantly, the integrated sensor on the board has likely failed.
- Listen for pump protection: The control often stops the pump on its own after a long run to prevent overheating. That behavior is normal and doesn’t mean the pump failed.
These steps sometimes restore normal operation, especially if soap residue blocked the air dome. However, persistent constant-drain behavior points to the control board.
Why It Happens on 2–3 Year-Old Washers
Homeowners often ask why their relatively new washer already “thinks it’s full” and keeps draining. In our climate, a mix of factors contributes:
- Detergent and softener buildup in the air dome and hose, especially with frequent cold-water cycles.
- Humidity in Houston that promotes condensation in the pressure line.
- Power events such as brownouts and surges that stress sensitive analog components on the board.
- Installation quirks like high standpipes or long drain runs that encourage odd siphon behavior.
Even though the integrated pressure sensor is a quality part from a respected Japanese manufacturer, failures do occur. And because it’s integrated, you cannot swap only the sensor—the board needs repair or replacement.
What a Professional Visit Includes
When you schedule washer repair in Houston, here’s how we work:
- Code capture & live data: We enter diagnostics, capture stored codes, and read live pressure values to confirm the failure.
- Pressure circuit check: We test the hose and air dome, clear them if needed, and verify there’s no water trapped in the line.
- Board assessment: If the sensor output is biased or stuck, we recommend board-level repair or a replacement control.
- On-site board repair or swap: We carry common controls and also perform on-site board repairs when practical. That saves time and money.
- Calibration and a real test load: We complete calibration and run a load to verify correct fill, wash, and spin.
Cost of Repair vs. Replacement
Replacing a decent top-load washer today usually means $700+ once you add taxes, delivery, installation, and haul-away. The constant-drain fix—board repair or replacement—typically runs $250–$350 in Katy, Fulshear, Memorial, and Uptown. That’s the smart move financially, and it keeps a good appliance out of the landfill.
Related Local Resources
Professional Conclusion (From the Author)
After many repairs on this platform across Houston, Katy, Memorial, Uptown, and Fulshear, the verdict is clear: in more than 90% of “washer keeps draining” calls, the failure is the pressure sensor integrated on the main control board. The sensor is generally high-quality, yet it still fails. When that happens, the board believes water remains in the tub, runs the pump, times out to protect the motor, and often throws F3E1. DIY steps like clearing the hose or blowing it out rarely solve the issue for long. The stable fix is board repair or replacement. Our team can repair many boards on site or install a new certified control, then calibrate and test the machine before we leave.
FAQ: Whirlpool/Maytag/Amana Washer Keeps Draining
Why does my Whirlpool or Maytag washer start draining immediately?
Because the control board believes the tub is full. A faulty reading from the board’s pressure sensor triggers constant draining, even with an empty tub.
Can I fix a constant-drain problem myself?
Try a safe checklist: unplug for a reset, locate the tech sheet, note codes, clear and reseat the pressure hose, and run calibration. If the behavior returns or F3E1 appears, the control board needs repair or replacement.
How much does it cost to repair in the Houston area?
Most repairs fall between $250 and $350, which covers diagnostics, board repair or replacement, calibration, and testing. Replacing the washer typically costs $700+ after tax, delivery, install, and haul-away.
Will replacing the drain pump stop the constant draining?
Almost never. The pump is doing what the board commands. Unless the pump is noisy or not moving water, the root cause is upstream—on the control board’s pressure sensor.
Which models are most affected?
We frequently service Whirlpool WTW4955HW3 and WTW4816FW3, Maytag MVWC215EW1, and many Amana NTW units sharing the same control design. Codes F3E1 and F9E1 are common.
Ready to Fix Your Washer Today?
Book trusted washer repair with HomeFix Appliance Repair. We serve Katy, Fulshear, Memorial, Uptown, and Cinco Ranch from our shop at 3306 S Fry Rd, Katy, TX 77450. We diagnose quickly, repair the control board when possible, calibrate, and test a load before we leave—so your laundry day gets back on track.
